Garment District Fabric Shopping

Last week, Andy and I went to New York for five days. It was Andy's first time in the city, and I was happy to play tour guide. We did everything touristy: Guggenheim, the Met, MoMa, Ellis Island, Chinatown, Times Square, Central Park, saw Newsies on Broadway, accidentally ran into Tina Fey filming 30 Rock, and last but CERTAINLY not least, shopped for fabric in the garment district.

Armed with a carefully edited shopping list and close to 10 pattern envelopes, we finally made it to 38th St on Wednesday morning, our last day. We had a great time, and here are my finds:

To make Vogue V8804:

I found the following items:

The wool tweed is officially the most expensive fabric I've ever purchased at $30/yd from Paron Fabrics. The 4-ply silk lining fabric is from Chic Fabric, and the trimmings (braid, grosgrain ribbon, chain and buttons) are from Pacific Trimming.

To make Vogue 8766 ( dress view E) and McCalls 6173:

I got these:

This picture is hard to see accurately, but the red lace is for the dress, to copy a Valentino that I saw at Nordstrom's Designer Preview event in June. The black (yes black, not navy) pleather is for leggings, they will have a ponte back, for a fraction of what the ones at work cost. Fabric is from A.K. Fabrics.

For Butterick 5780:

I found this:

Marine blue wool crepe from somewhere cramped, can't remember or find the receipt. Hopefully this works out since it doesn't stretch like the pattern recommends.

For Kwik Sew 3503:

I found these:

I've wanted the peacock print since April, and loved the multi brush print too. These and the power mesh for lining are from Spandex House. The rubber swim elastic is from Pacific Trimming.

I've wanted to make McCalls 5433 for awhile, but could never find eyelet that didn't look like it was meant for a nursery.

Then I found this:

All from H & M Fabrics, which is right next to Paron. We actually found these fabrics on our first day, and then I thought about them all week before going back to purchase. The eyelet is for the tunic, obviously. The brocade in the middle is sososo yummy and will make a gorgeous pencil skirt. The sequined sweater knit will make something, maybe a jacket? How could one find such beautiful fabric and not just take it home?

My most anticipated shopping place was Mood Fabrics, which is featured in Project Runway. At Mood I found the prices high, although the organization and staffing certainly justified it in comparison with other shops in the area. I found one fabric that I just couldn't not have (rhinestone print silk charmeuse), and a t-shirt. That awesome tote bag came with my purchase!

And that's it for my garment district finds. These should keep me busy for... awhile.

Simplicity 2154

Awhile back I sewed Simplicity 2154, which is the great vintage looking pattern for a skirt, bow top, cardigan and jacket. To start, I made the skirt. This was simple to cut out and sew up, and I love the result! This has been a great spring work staple and I can't wait to make another!

Simplicity 2184

I've had this skirt complete for about a week now, and I'm fairly pleased with the result. I wanted a bright colored maxi skirt for summer, and this jade green color just called to me!

I used Simplicity 2184, view C, because I like how full it is on the bottom without the shape of a full ballgown skirt. The elastic waist is easy and comfy, although now that it's complete, it's probably my least favorite feature.

This went together pretty easily, I read the directions and decided to do my own thing instead. Rather than connecting the top parts of the center front and the sides and then inserting the godets, I just started with the center front and added the godet, then the side piece. This was simple and turned out just fine. I also lengthened the skirt pieces by 5" each so that this skirt would hit the floor.

I'm playing with the idea of adding a sash or using a belt to cover the elastic waist. Thoughts or suggestions?

Simplicity 2053

Pattern Description: Misses' day to evening dresses in two lengths with bodice and sleeve variations sewing pattern

Pattern Sizing: 6-14

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, but with no sleeves.

Were the instructions easy to follow? The instructions were great, the side pleating looks really weird even when you folllow the directions on the tissue. Looking at the directions helped especially with this step.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? Classic, great dress for work.

Fabric Used: Project Runway cotton sateen from Joanns. This fabric is an awesome weight and feels nicer than other sateens that I've worked with. I lined the dress with non-stretch cotton because the sateen has some stretch to it.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I left off sleeves and bound the armholes with bias tape.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I would possibly make this again because it's such a timeless shape. For now, on to other projects!

Conclusion:  I adore this dress, and I'm sure that I will get a lot of wear from it both at work and for social occasions.

Simplicity 2178

Tuesday night, I cut out Simplicity 2178 while watching TV. Wednesday night and Thursday morning I worked on it, and this afternoon, I finished it! This went together really easily, is this possibly a sign that I'm becoming a more skilled sewist? Is it because the cotton fabric was incredibly easy to work with? Either way, it was a dream to sew! If I make this again, I'll lengthen the skirt by a few inches, I would prefer the skirt end closer to my knee. Good thing this is a summer dress!

Simplicity 2258

Yesterday afternoon I made Simplicity 2258, what a comfy and easy summer skirt! It took me just a few hours, and that included making and inserting my own lining. I think there will be more of these in my future!

The pockets are nice and big, and also loose enough to actually hold things without looking like I'm growing a goiter out of my pelvis. Yay!

I really love the bow belt that covers the front. It hides the elastic waist nicely, at least from the front!

I added 2 inches to the back half of the skirt and skirt lining (pats self on the back). Good move Martha, good move.

The best part is that this fabric was only $3/yard, so this skirt cost less than $6 to make. Definitely under $10 if you factor in the lining, thread, and elastic!

How to Sew From a Pattern

I've had a friend repeatedly ask: How do you SEW something? How do you even know what to do? As a result, here are some general steps that I follow, much abbreviated, for Kathy.

Step 1: Select your pattern and fabric.

Step 2: Pre-shrink your fabric. This means that you put it in your washing machine on the final "rinse" cycle, so you get it wet and then also rung out. Then dry it in the dryer. Unless it's formalwear fabric, silk, or some other dryclean only creation. This dress is cotton, so we'll proceed. This step will make my garment washable, so it won't shrink wierdly after it is assembled.

Step 3: While your fabric is pre-shrinking, determine which pattern pieces you'll need, and cut them from the pattern tissue. Take note of how many you'll need of each piece.

Step 4: Lay out your dry fabric, and figure out the best way to lay out the pattern pieces. This may or may not be the way the pattern directions tell you to do it. I usually review their suggestion and then do my own thing. Now that you're sure you'll have enough fabric to cut out all of your pieces, just cut them out, following the shape of the pattern.

Step 5: Read the directions start to finish. Go over each pattern piece and mark them as noted. In this project I'm using hot pink thread to mark my pattern, since it contrasts well with turquoise and is easy to find. Then go back to step one of the directions and begin sewing. As you go, be sure to iron every seam so that your finished garment looks crisp and tidy.

Step 6: Continue sewing as the directions state, or sometimes I decide that I know a better way and use that instead. Make sure to use enough pins so your fabric doesn't slide as it enters the machine. A person should really remove their pins as they sew, I'm bad about this. Once you've sewn a seam, press it. Periodically, try your garment on your mannequin (and yourself) so that you can ensure that each side is even and that everything is fitting correctly. I ended up taking this bodice apart and taking the sides in so that it fit better. It's easier to fix while you go along than when you're finished.

Step 7: Continue all steps until the garment is finished. Try it on to make sure it zips!



Simplicity 2497

I threw this together in one afternoon. Literally, just buzzed it together on my serger! It was my first jersey knit garment, and I learned a few things. Since the fabric is stretchy, I should have started with a smaller waistband. When the dress ended up being a foot (literally) too big through the waist, I should have taken apart the waistband and shortened it, then regathered and reattached the top and bottom. Instead, I just took it in on both sides, which made the top and skirt much less full than they are supposed to be. Thankfully, it still fits and still lays right on my body. This dress feels like wearing pajamas!

Simplicity 2359

I finished this dress awhile ago, during a full day Harry Potter marathon on ABC Family. It was great, 12 hours of HP, 12 hours of sewing (though not all on this dress)! Here is the result:

It fits well, it went together well, and I love this summer sundress!

Pattern Addiction

So, I may have a pattern problem. A full blown addiction? Maybe. Here are today's finds:

The first one is a skirt (McCalls M5591) that I already have fabric for, its to knock off Kate Spade's $325 Lilith skirt:

The next is McCalls M5525, to copy a coat that I found on Pinterest. It says it's from H & M, but I don't like the fabric on their version. I want it warmer, so I'll make my own.

Next is Simplicity 2273, some bibs for a friend's baby:

And then there's the pattern I've been sale-hunting for all summer, finally found at Hancock Fabrics, Simplicity 2178:

And one that I've been unsure of for awhile, so I just went for it before it goes out of print, Simplicity 2497:

Last is Simplicity 2053, I just love the long sleeves and the side rouching. I'm planning to make the view on the top right. I think this will make a great winter dress!